The four main types of natural silk are Mulberry, Tussar, Eri, and Muga. Mulberry silk is the most common and comes from a domesticated silkworm, while the others are types of "wild" or "ahimsa" silk that are more durable, have unique textures, or have a natural golden color.
Mulberry Silk: The most popular and widely produced type of silk, made by the Bombyx mori silkworm. It is known for being very smooth and lustrous.
Tussar Silk: Also known as Tasar or Kosa silk, it is a wild silk with a rougher, uneven texture and a natural beige-to-brown color. It is often more durable than mulberry silk.
Eri Silk: Known as "ahimsa silk" or "peace silk," as the moths emerge from the cocoon before the silk is harvested. It is soft, durable, and often creamy white, made by the Philosamia ricini silkworm.
Muga Silk: A rare and expensive type of wild silk that is a golden-yellow color, often used in traditional Indian garments. It comes from the Antheraea assamensis silkworm and is known for its high sheen, which can increase with age.
The Weave
Crimson Silk Faille Fabric is a shiny, soft, medium-weight fabric with distinct ribs, or ridges, running in the weft direction.
Silk velvet Silk velvet is a unique, soft and lustrous fabric that found one of its main production centers in Venice, thanks to its intense trade with the Orient. It is estimated that in the 16th century there were at least 6,000 looms in the city dedicated to the production of the famous Venetian velvet. Tessitura Luigi Bevilacqua continues this tradition of the highest quality and uniqueness, still producing silk velvets with ancient looms and using the same craftsmanship techniques as in the past.
In this article we will tell you the history of this precious fabric, so that you can know it better and distinguish it: from the origins of silk in Italy, to its processing, to the different types of velvet according to the yarns used in its composition.
The Origins of Silk in Italy
Around 2700 B.C., silkworms were bred exclusively in China, where the silk industry was born. It is not entirely clear how silk arrived in Europe, but it seems that in 53 B.C. the Romans came into contact with this precious material, unknown to them, during the battle of Carre (today’s Harran in Turkey). There they clashed with the Parthians (inhabitants of ancient Syria), who waved silk banners.
From that time on, Rome began to import silk from China along the Silk Road, not buying it directly from the Seri (the Chinese), but through intermediaries belonging to other peoples. However, the origin and processing of silk remained a mystery. Pliny the Elder, in his treatise Naturalis Historia, described it as lanicium silvarum, or “yarn of the forests,” assuming that it was obtained from plants.
Silk Velvet Production in Venice
Emperor Justinian sent two monks on a secret mission to China to unlock the secrets of silk. They returned with silkworms, marking the beginning of silk production in Europe, although imports from the East continued. Marco Polo (1254-1324) was one of the first Westerners to reach China, traveling along the Silk Road, an intricate network of routes connecting East Asia, particularly China, with the Middle East and Europe. From his travels he brought back to Venice spices, precious artifacts and, above all, textiles: it was the fine silk fabrics that contributed to the fortunes of Venetian merchants, as well as those of Florence, Genoa and Lucca.
In the 16th century, Venice became a center of excellence in the production of silk velvet, marking the peak of silk art in Italy.
The Bevilacqua family, active in the textile arts since 1499, contributed to the development of this tradition, although Tessitura Luigi Bevilacqua was not officially founded until 1875. The company was located in a palace on the Fondamenta San Lorenzo, the former home of the Scuola della Seta della Serenissima, which had been abandoned at the beginning of the century following the Napoleonic decree of 1806, which sanctioned the closure of all artisan guilds in Venice.
What is Silk Velvet Made of?
The element that distinguishes velvets from all other fabrics is the pile, that soft surface that tickles your hands as soon as you brush it. It is the yarns chosen for the pile that determine the luster and softness of the final velvet. Velvets have at least two warps and one weft. The first warp, or ground warp, forms the base of the fabric and intertwines with the weft. In handlooms, the threads that make up the ground warp are rolled around the subbio, the large cylinder at the end of the wooden structure.
ANTHONY'S, NATIONAL DAGUERREOTYPE DEPOT, 203 & 205 BROADWAY, NEW YORK
CASEMAKERS’ MATERIALS.
331 Fifth Avenue in the former Harlem Railroad Depot
Heavy leather for embossing. Thin leather for binding.
Crimson silk for cushions.
Silk velvet, ruby and maroon, of different qualities.
Cotton velvet, crimson.
Patent velvet, silk finished, crimson.
Satin, maroon.
Varnish, of superior quality. Hooks. Clasps, for book-cases, &e., &c. Embossing done at moderate rates.
B. L. HIGGINS. The “Regulator,” CLARK BROTHERS, &
Daguerreian Gallery, over Franklin Buildings, Syracuse, N. Y., No. 128 Genesee St., Utica, Tremont Row Boston, and 551 Broadway, New York.
N. E. Sisson. No.496 Broadway, Albany, NY, CASES silk and velvet lined, Papier Mache and a great variety of fancy cases.
PETER SMITH, No. 36 Fith street, Cincinatti, Ohio. Cases— Papier-Mache inlaid with Mother of Pearl, Velvet in and out with Clasps and Locks, Morocco lined with Velvet, Silk and Satin, Plain and Gilt, also a great variety of fancy patterns.
Cases— Papier-Mache inlaid with Mother o^ Pearl, Velvet in and out with Clasps and Locks, Morocco lined with Velvet, Silk and Satin, Plain and Gilt, also a great variety of fancy patterns.
JAMS.- DOER, WINTER, * No. 101 Nassau S1$ N? Y.
BRITISH SILK MILLS
Vanners
Vanners Silk Weavers is a historic British silk weaving company founded in 1740 that relocated to Sudbury, Suffolk, and is known for weaving high-quality, durable silk fabrics for clients like luxury brands and the royal family. The company offers standard and custom-colored fabrics, and its services include bespoke design, which turns sketches and digital files into woven textiles. Vanners is considered a leader in the silk industry due to its use of fine mulberry silk, intricate 350 ends-per-inch warp for jacquard weaves, and in-house dye house that allows for a wide range of vibrant colors.
History and relocation
Founded in Spitalfields, London, around 1740 by Huguenot silk weavers, the company moved to Sudbury, Suffolk, in the 19th century.
The move to Sudbury was prompted by a decline in the silk industry in London and the availability of skilled weavers in the Suffolk area.
It is now one of the few remaining silk weaving mills in the UK, continuing the legacy of its Huguenot founders.
Products and services
Bespoke and standard fabrics: Vanners provides a standard range of colorways and also offers custom-colored fabrics, with up to five color combinations sampled for custom orders.
Luxury market: The company is known for supplying high-quality silk to the world's most prestigious clients, including top design houses, HM The Queen, royal brides, Michelle Obama, and Adele.
Neckwear fabrics: It has a long history of weaving silk for neckwear and is renowned for its ability to create luxurious, double-layered silk with exceptional color depth and richness.
Bespoke designs: Vanners can convert hand-drawn sketches or computer files into woven fabric.
Manufacturing process
Vertical integration:Vanners maintains complete control over its production process, from dying the yarns to creating designs internally.
Material quality:They use only the finest mulberry silk.
Weave quality:The use of an exclusive 350 ends-per-inch warp creates incredibly intricate textures and details in their jacquard weaves.
In-house dyehouse: The company has its own dyehouse, allowing it to produce a vast and vibrant spectrum of shades internally
Stephen Walters & Sons
Stephen Walters & Sons can trace its origins to Benjamin Walters, who was the first member of the Walters family to become a Master Weaver based in Spitalfields, London. His son, Joseph I also went on to become a Master Weaver of the Worshipful Company of Weavers.
Bevilacqua most notably refers to Tessitura Luigi Bevilacqua, a historic and luxury silk weaving workshop in Venice, Italy. [1, 2]
Tessitura Luigi Bevilacqua: Founded in Venice in 1875 by Luigi Bevilacqua, with roots tracing back to 1499 using ancient 18th-century hand-operated looms from the Republic of Venice's Silk Guild. It produces luxury fabrics like soprarizzo velvet and damask, and expanded into wallcoverings with its Bevilacqua Classics line. More details are available at Tessitura Luigi Bevilacqua. [1, 2, 3]
FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES
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American History, Brick Walls, Charts and Maps, Collections, Critical Analysis, Family Stories, Genealogical Writing, Research Methods and Tips. ______________________________________________________________
Set Name: Migel-Mallinson Silks
Hiram Royal Mallinson, an ambitious and talented son of mid-nineteenth-century immigrants from Poland, entered the silk trade in 1893 as a salesman
Hiram Royal Mallinson, an ambitious and talented son of mid-nineteenth-century immigrants from Poland, entered the silk trade in 1893 as a salesman
Hiram R. Mallinson, president of the silk firm of H. R. Mallinson & Co., Inc., and widely known among business men here and abroad, died of heart disease yesterday at his office, 299 Fifth Avenue. He was in his sixty-first year.
He had been under a physician's care for many years, but had nevertheless worked at his office with signal regularity. Yesterday afternoon he returned about 1:30 o'clock from a meeting at the Empire State Club and, as he stepped from his office into the showroom of the firm, he collapsed near the door. He was carried into an adjoining office, his personal physician, Dr. Robert L. Levy of 31 East Seventy-second Street was summoned and members of his family were notified by telephone. Dr. Levy called three other physicians to aid him in attempting to revive Mr. Mallinson. Mrs. Mallinson, who is the former Linda V. Migel, reached her husband's side a few moments before his death occurred. His daughter, Mrs. Young Kaufman, arrived a few minutes later. Other near relatives are a son, Hiram R. Mallinson Jr., who is at the Hill School in Pottstown, Pa.; a small granddaughter, Linda Beau Mallinson, and four brothers. The funeral, which is to be private, will be at 2 P. M. tomorrow from the home of Mrs. Kaufman at 130 East End Avenue. The Rev. Dr. Minot Simons of All Souls Unitarian Church, of which Mr. Mallinson was a member, will officiate. Burial will be in Kensico Cemetery.
The largest individual operation in the immediate locality is the sixteen-story commercial building nearing completion by Julius Tishman & Son on a ninety-three-foot plot at 13 to 19 West Thirty-seventh Street. A six-story loft is going up at 21, adjoining. Of course, the big ten-story addition to the Columbia Trust Building on Thirty-fourth Street, now owned by a syndicate headed by Max Natanson, must be considered with the elaborate changes to its façade, while below Thirty-fourth Street work in progressing actively on the twenty-story Textile building occupying the entire easterly block between Thirtieth and Thirty-first Streets, with a frontage of 200 feet on each street. The foundations for this immense structure have been completed and work on raising the steel girders is ready to begin. This operation removed eight old-fashioned, dignified homes, being 285 to 299 Fifth Avenue, the house at 285 having been for many years the home of Dr. Lewis A. Sayre.
The two early Hamersley residences at 255 and 257 Fifth Avenue, between Twenty-eighth and Twenty-ninth Streets, long altered for business, have given way to a five-story loft nearly ready for occupancy, and workmen have started to tear down the adjoining old house at 253, which figured in three or four sales within the last year.
Several changes are being made on Madison Avenue, of chief importance in this vicinity being the thirteen-story commercial building on the small plot, 24.9 on the avenue by 95 on the street, at the northwest corner of Thirtieth Street, adjoining the former Colony Club building.
Lewis Albert Sayre (February 29, 1820 – September 21, 1900) was a leading American orthopedic surgeon, public-health activist, and creator of the journal of the American Medical Association in the 19th century. He performed the first operation to cure hip-joint ankylosis, introduced the method of suspending the patient followed by wrapping the body to correct spine distortions, and popularized circumcision in the United States.[1] Sayre improved sanitary conditions in New York, stopping the spread of cholera from incoming ships, and was among the foremost in the founding of the Bellevue Hospital Medical College and one of the founders of the American Medical Association, of which he was elected vice-president in 1866, and
Max N. Natanson, a major real estate developer, died yes terday in Palm Beach, Fla., where he was spending the winter, after a short illness. He was 84 years old and lived here at 146 Central Park West.
Mr Natanson, a native New Yorker, was graduated from Townsend Harris Hall, City Col lege, and New York University Law School, but turned imme diately to the real estate busi ness. By 1927 it was estimated that’ he had handled property transactions exceeding $400 million.
One of his proudest achieve ments came in 1926, when he proposed to General Motors the construction of a tall building for the corporation on top of a smaller building on the site at 57th Street and Broadway. Hav ing made the proposition to John J. Raskob, representing the corporation, he sat back and waited without pressing the matter further—and nearly a year later he was told it was a deal.
In 1925 Mr. Natanson bought the Whitelaw Reid estate in Purchase, N.Y., on behalf of the City Progress Club. It is now the Old Oaks Country Club.
Natanson was a founder of Albert Einstein College of Medicine and active in the Fed eration of Jewish Philanthropies and United Jewish Appeal.
Company History
Founding: Moses Charles Migel started the silk business in New York City in 1895.Partnership: Hiram Royal Mallinson joined the firm as a leader, and the company was renamed M.C. Migel & Co. in 1900.Rebranding: The company became H.R. Mallinson & Co. in 1915.Family Venture: Moses's younger brother, Julius A. Migel, later established his own short-lived silk firm called J.A. Migel, Inc.
2. Mexixe Series: A 1914 collection noted as the first time an American textile house drew design inspiration from the American Southwest and Mexico rather than looking strictly to Paris.
3. Georgette Crepe: A popular sheer, creped silk voile fabric.
4. Legacy of Moses Charles MigelHe retired from active textile manufacturing in the early 1900s.He dedicated his later years to advocacy and served as the primary founder of the American Foundation for the Blind in 1921.Would you like to learn more about Moses Charles Migel's work with the blind community or details on early 20th-century American textile printing techniques?
Famed attorney William Nelson Cromwell, Helen Keller, and M.C. Migel
In the mid 1930s he recognized the need for stable employment for visually impaired persons. This led to important legislation in the Wagner-O’Day Act and the forming of the National Industries for the Blind in 1938. Migel chaired the NIB board during its formative years, 1938-1943.
Migel was made a Chevalier of the French Legion of Honor for his work in France during World War I. AFB’s prestigious Migel Medal was established in 1937 to honor outstanding professionals and volunteers in the blindness field and he received the American Association of Workers for the Blind’s Shotwell award in 1941. In 1963 AFB’s library was named the M.C. Migel Memorial Library and it has become one of the most important research collections on the non-medical aspects of blindness and visual impairment in the world. With the support of AFB, the library moved to the American Printing House for the Blind in 2009.
Migel was a pioneer in his day, advocating for the blind and visually impaired during a time when they were ignored. He was described by Lynch of NIB as "the single most influential person in the early part of the 20th Century to foster opportunities for people with severe visual disabilities." His vision, determination and generosity have left a legacy that continues to live today.
Photos of M.C. Migel Courtesy of AFB
MIgel became head of the Allied Silk Trading Corporation, which handled importing raw silk from Japan and China to meet war production needs.
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